L’Ile Sainte Marie : Véritable paradis tropical
  • Véritable paradis tropical, l’île de Sainte-Marie est encore préservée du tourisme de masse. C’est donc une île authentique avec ses plages désertes ou occupées par de petits villages de pêcheurs au mode de vie traditionnel et séculaire. Les véhicules peu nombreux du fait d’une faible infrastructure routière renforcent le côté « intemporel » de cet endroit du « bout du monde ». Les pistes et les sentiers sont toutefois nombreux et la taille de l’île (60 Km de long pour 5 Km maximum de large) permettent de la visiter en douceur à pied ou en bicyclette. De nombreux hôtels sont implantés le long des côtes et vous permettront de faire des haltes appréciées.
    A l’Est de Madagascar, une île baigne tranquillement dans l’eau turquoise d’un paisible lagon. Jadis, il s’y est tissé le libre destin de richissimes pirates, on y raconte encore d’insolites légendes.

    Jardin tropical luxuriant, elle abrite en sa cour des forêts où vivent plusieurs variétés de lémuriens ainsi qu’une majestueuse orchidée.

    Pendant la saison des amours, ce paradis devient le nid des baleines mégaptères, magnifiques acrobates des mers.

    Les gens sont accueillants et leurs coutumes demeurent. Comme la brise de l’océan, la vie est douce en ce lieu enchanteur.

    Partagez notre amour pour l’île Sainte Marie.

    Les sites et les pôles d’intérêt ne manquent pas : L’île aux Nattes, le cimetière des pirates, la forêt d’Ampanihy, l’île aux Forbans, la migration annuelle des baleines à bosse, ses fêtes populaires… Les amoureux de fonds sous-marins pourront également faire de belles plongées près des récifs coralliens.

    La migration des baleines à bosse (de juillet à septembre)

    À l’île Sainte-Marie, au mois de juin, l’alizé du Sud est déjà bien installé. Les premières baleines à bosse (Megaptera novaeangliae) longent en direction du Nord ses côtes orientales et occidentales. Sont-elles des échappées? En avance sur la grande migration qui amène les grands Léviathans d’un des stocks de l’hémisphère Sud à revenir chaque année dans les eaux malgaches pour y donner la vie et s’accoupler, ce sont peut-être aussi des individus qui n’ont pas migré et qui viennent en avance pour retrouver leurs congénères qui arrivent des hautes latitudes antarctiques (65° Sud).

    C’est la bosse située en avant et à la base de l’aileron dorsal qui vaut à l’espèce son nom de baleine à bosse et non ses protubérances arrondies disposées sur trois rangées au niveau du museau, l’une médiane et les deux autres latérales ou ses nombreux tubercules situés sur la mâchoire inférieure et une grosse verrucosité parfois subdivisée en nodosités distinctes dans la région du menton. De plus, lorsque l’animal sonde, l’enroulement du corps qui le propulse vers le fond accentue encore cet effet de bosse. On emploie également le terme de mégaptère étant donné la longueur des nageoires pectorales qui ressemblent sous l’eau ou lors des sauts à de véritables ailes (mega grand et pteron aile).

    Enfin le terme de jubarte du vieux français gibbar est utilisé et se rapproche de gibbeux qui signifie qui porte une bosse. Les grandes baleines sont là : 15 m en moyenne pour 25 à 40 tonnes. Le spectacle peut commencer. Souffles, déroulements et enroulements de bosses, jeux de nageoires pectorales, ballets de caudales mais aussi sauts qui libèrent totalement le monstre marin de son élément liquide et qui propulse son museau à 10 m en hauteur ! Les mégaptères sont les plus joueurs des grands balénoptères.
    Publicité

    Qui oubliera ce souffle puissant après l’avoir entendu pour la première fois à la remontée de cette masse imposante qui allie puissance, grâce et souplesse ? Ce souffle de vie explosif, ce défi permanent du mammifère à l’élément liquide qui nous rappelle que les baleines respirent avec des poumons et qu’elles donnent naissance à un nouveau-né, la plupart du temps unique, qui sort du ventre de sa mère identique à celle-ci et non pas d’un oeuf. Ce bébé tète le lait très gras produit par deux mamelles situées de part et d’autre de la fente génitale au tiers postérieur et sur la face ventrale du corps.
    Les baleines viennent en effet dans les eaux malgaches pour mettre bas et s’accoupler. Les premières à arriver lors de la migration vers le Nord sont les femelles accompagnées des jeunes, nés l’année précédente vraisemblablement dans les mêmes eaux ou les eaux avoisinantes; bien que la fidélité au site de reproduction soit moins forte que la fidélité au site de nourrissage. Puis viennent les immatures, ceux qui ne se reproduisent pas mais viennent quand même pour le « fun », la découverte. Vous me direz que c’est un périple vachement fatigant surtout pour les vieux et là, pas de « carte Vermeil » ni un jeune pour te refiler sa place dans le bus, il faut pédaler un max : 6 000 bornes, ce n’est pas triste même dotés de battoirs de 4 m de long, d’un propulseur de 4 m d’envergure et aidé par la force d’Archimède. Ensuite arrivent avec une quinzaine de jours de retard, les mâles reproducteurs, puis les femelles en repos de cycle. Enfin, les grosses mères en fin de gestation qui viennent se délivrer de leur fardeau providentiel. Dans le canal de Sainte-Marie et la baie d’Antongil, mais vraisemblablement sur toute la côte de Madagascar, les baleineaux naissent pour la plupart durant la première quinzaine d’août. Les premiers sont vus fin juillet début août. Bien qu’en 1996, nous ayons été surpris de voir les premiers baleineaux nouveau-nés le 15 juillet. Grâce à la photo identification, chaque baleine est connue, identifiée et répertoriée. À Sainte Marie, nous connaissons déjà Carnaval pour son patron en forme de masque avec bouche, nez et yeux, Good Morning, Batman qui lui aussi a un masque mais noir, la Buse qui avec seulement une demi-caudale fait penser à un pirate…
    Carte de Madagascar

    Autour de l’île, l’observation commerciale des baleines est organisée depuis un peu plus de dix ans. La plupart des hôtels vous proposeront une excursion en bateau pour quelques heures ou à la journée accompagnée d’un repas à midi. Vu du ciel, le « safari baleine » peut aussi se révéler captivant. L’aéro-club de Tamatave peut vous faire découvrir les Léviathans grâce à ses avions à ailes hautes. Sur les lignes régulières, le pilote d’Air Madagascar effectuera si les conditions le permettent, un passage au-dessus d’une d’elles pour vous mettre dans l’ambiance. Le « whalewatching » s’organise en essayant de ne pas harceler les animaux. Certains diront qu’on perturbe les baleines. Certaines pourtant semblent se complaire au milieux des bateaux d’observation et il y en a même qui ont la curiosité, le toupet de venir nous voir. L’île Sainte Marie est l’endroit balnéaire le plus connu pour les baleines à bosse à Madagascar, mais elles sont présentes tout autour de la Grande Ile. Pour l’instant, place au spectacle ! Dans cet océanarium tropical naturel, dans ce grand bocal à baleines, programme continu, jours ouvrables, dimanches et jours de fêtes si les conditions météo le permettent de mi-juillet à mi-septembre. Dépêchez-vous si les horizons sont encore dans des coins plus difficiles d’accès et là où l’océan est capricieux, les places deviennent chères dans le petit paradis saint-marien.

    L’île aux Nattes (Nosy Nato)

    L’origine du nom proviendrait d’un bois, le « nato », qui était autrefois utilisé pour la construction des navires. Il a aujourd’hui complètement disparu de l’île. On pourrait penser aussi que le nom est en relation avec les belles nattes que tressent les femmes de l’île, grâce aux feuilles de Pandanus.

    L’île est habitée par une vingtaine de familles qui vivent essentiellement de la pêche et du tourisme. La petitesse de l’île permet d’en faire facilement le tour en une demi-journée.

    L’orchidée mauve

    On trouve à l’île aux Nattes une variété spécifique et endémique d’orchidée. Il s’agit de Eulophiella Roempleriana Schltr qui fleurit aux mois de septembre et d’octobre et vit dans les zones marécageuses et précisément sur les pandanus. Sa hampe caractéristique peut mesurer jusqu’à 1,50 m. L’espèce très rare est préservée et sa cueillette est strictement interdite.

    Un sentier mène jusqu’à celui-ci. Un panorama magnifique s’étend sur les récifs et la côte est.

    La plage Berlin

    Plage superbe située au sud de l’île.
    De la pointe Sud à Ambodifotatra
    Vohilava

    Par la piste de la Côte Ouest. Sa petite église mérite de s’y attarder notamment le jour du seigneur pour y découvrir une ambiance festive encore préservée.
    Ambodiforaha

    Par la piste de la Côte Est. Embranchement indiqué.
    Ambodifotatra

    Au pied du fotatra. Le fotatra étant un arbre séculaire autrefois répandu dans l’île (Baringtonia raciamosa).
    Le vieux fort

    Bâti au sommet de la colline d’Ambodifotatra, il est aujourd’hui occupé par l’armée malgache. On peut toutefois voir ses fortifications et le portail surmonté d’un fronton sculpté. Ce fort a servi de maison de force à l’époque où l’île de Sainte Marie accueillait les bagnards. La Compagnie des Indes Orientales construisit le premier bâtiment qui date de 1753. Les autres constructions ont été bâties pour la plupart en 1870.
    Le tombeau de Sylvain Roux

    Situé à deux pas de l’entrée du fort. Inscriptions à sa mémoire.
    Le tombeau d’Albrand

    Jeune pionnier français qui occupa quelque temps la fonction de commandant de l’île (1823). Inscriptions en français et en arabe.

    Construite en 1857, c’est la plus vieille église de Madagascar. Son autel (don de l’Impératrice Eugénie) est en fonte forgée. Malheureusement fermée au public en dehors des services religieux.
    L’île aux Forbans (Baie aux Forbans)

    Louer à Ambodifotatra les services d’un piroguier. Quel nom évocateur, qui nous entraîne dans des aventures romanesques. Cette île circulaire et minuscule a vu sûrement passer de nombreux forbans et corsaires parmi lesquels Surcouf, La Buse, Thomas White, David Williams, John Every, Thomas Tew pour ne citer que quelques-uns des plus célèbres « écumeurs de mer » qui exerçaient leur activité dans l’Océan Indien au début du XVIIIe siècle. C’est sur cet îlot que se partageait le butin et que se tenaient les assemblées de pirates. En hauteur, on distingue une ruine en forme d’arc de cercle (comme un encadrement de porte donnant sur du vide). Peut-être un repère d’alignement pour une éventuelle cache au trésor ? Le mystère reste entier.

    L’Ayguade (au sud de la baie)

    Site où les navires venaient se ravitailler en eau douce.

    Le cimetière des pirates ou « Cimetière Saint-Pierre » Situé au Sud de la baie, sur une presqu’île où l’on peut découvrir de nombreuses tombes en ruine dont certaines remontent au début du XVIIIe siècle.
    L’îlot Madame (Baie aux Forbans)

    Avec sa petite crique abritée et son ancien port autrefois baptisé « Port Louquez » (francisation de « Loky » qui signifie baie en malgache), l’Ilot Madame a accueilli tout au long des siècles de nombreux navires. On aperçoit encore quelques vestiges de jetée plus ou moins abandonnées. C’est le Français Sylvain Roux, qui en 1820 débaptisa l’ancienne « île aux Cailles »ou « Ile aux Cayes » pour la nommer « Ilot Madame » en l’honneur de la fille du Roi de France.
    Monument ossuaire surmonté d’une croix de fer forgé

    Il s’agit d’un monument datant de 1854 où ont été enterrés les crânes des Français et Anglais tués par l’armée Merina lors des combats à Tamatave en 1845. L’inscription « Hic Capita Jacent » y est inscrite. La résidence du gouverneur Bâtiment dont il ne reste malheureusement plus que les murs suite à un incendie qui n’épargna pas cette magnifique demeure, aujourd’hui en cours de restauration. Un petit aquarium naturel dont l’eau est renouvelée avec la marée se situe devant la résidence, au bord du quai.
    Le Barachois

    Centre de la ville. C’est l’ancien port avec ses jetées en pierre. Principal lieu d’animation de la ville avec ses bars et ses commerces.
    D’Ambodifotatra à la pointe d’Albrand
    Anjahana

    7 Km. La plus ancienne distillerie de girofle de l’île encore en fonctionnement. L’alambic de Joël est d’ailleurs encore alimenté « au bois ».
    La pointe de la Marine

    Suivre la route du nord-ouest. La « pointe de la marine » est un promontoire rocheux avec un très beau panorama dominant l’ensemble de la baie d’Ambodifototra
    Antanandava (12 Km)

    Chute d’eau remarquable. Baignade possible.
    Lonkintsy

    Anivorano (Au milieu de l’eau)

    Ambatoroa (aux deux rochers)

    Aux deux rochers Village principal du nord de l’île, situé à 3 Km au sud de l’hôtel La Cocoteraie.

    La fabrication de « betsabetsa »

    Le « betsabetsa » est un alcool de fabrication locale à base de cannes à sucre écrasées manuellement par un tronc de cocotier, dont on laisse fermenter son jus.
    Le cimetière des Marins

    Situé à proximité du village d’Ambatororoa. Chaque statuette sculptée représente un marin disparu en mer. Des cérémonies traditionnelles à la mémoire des ancêtres ont lieu une fois par an. Les statuettes appelées « Tsangambatana » sont alors habillées d’un « lamba » neuf (suaire).

    Le phare Albrand

    5 Km d’Ambatoroa. La construction du phare date de 1931. C’est une tour métallique d’une hauteur de 14,50 m dominant de 78 m le niveau de la mer. Le phare fonctionnait autrefois grâce à une lampe à pétrole. Il y a la possibilité d’accéder à la passerelle par un escalier intérieur et de visiter le phare, en demandant une autorisation au gardien. Une vue magnifique s’étend alors vers tous les horizons. Du nord vers la pointe de l’île, au sud sur l’ensemble de Sainte Marie et l’on distingue à l’ouest la frange côtière distante d’une vingtaine de milles environ.
    La piscine naturelle

    Il ne s’agit non pas seulement d’une, mais de plusieurs « piscines naturelles ». Ces bassins d’eau de mer.


    août 14th, 2011 | Admin |

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