Nosy Be vaut le détour
  • Go to Nosy Be ! ou l’île au parfums. Nosy Be est une île la plus étendue située au large de la côte Nord-ouest malgache. Elle doit son surnom d’Île aux parfums à ses cultures d’ylang-ylang, de café, de vanille, de canne à sucre et d’épices.

    Le temps est comme suspendu à cette île, dominée par une montagne sacrée, cernée de lacs volcaniques d’un bleu profond, parfumée d’ylang-ylang et d’orchidée. Ici, tout est prétexte aux vacances, à la décontraction, à la douceur de vivre : son climat agréable et ses plages ombragées de cocotiers, le sable fin et doux comme du velours caressées par des eaux turquoises toujours chaudes et limpides, des fonds marins à faire rêver, des paysages qui semblent avoir été peints spécialement pour un catalogue de publicité… en ont fait l’endroit le plus touristique de Madagascar.

    ndéniablement, c’est le point fort du tourisme à Madagascar, parce que le mieux structuré, le mieux équipé, afin que les séjours des visiteurs soient une réussite absolue. Nosy Be représentera pour chacun l’apothéose d’un voyage malgache. Un bouquet, en quelque sorte, qui exhale à vous enivrer les senteurs de l’ylang-ylang, du caféier, du poivrier, de l’eucalyptus. Paradis des fleurs, paradis des plantes, paradis des oiseaux, paradis des poissons, paradis des pacifistes, mais aussi paradis de l’explorateur las de courir le monde, du touriste harassé qui souhaite une halte réparatrice avant de rentrer au pays : Nosy Be, c’est tout cela. Vocation touristique principalement balnéaire, avec 200 km de côtes vierges, des criques désertes, des îlots enchanteurs pour des excursions de rêve. Une récommandation cependant : ne vous laissez surtout pas bronzer bêtement. A part les plages et la mer, il y a tant de choses merveilleuses et passionnantes à découvrir… Forêts primaires, chapelets de lacs aux eaux vertes enchassés dans d’anciens cratères.

    Le développement récent des activités touristiques n’est pas pourtant sans conséquences néfastes sur le patrimoine naturel. L’ensablement et la déforestation qui en résultent font de tels ravages, que les féeriques récifs coralliens entourant l’île sont en train de disparaître. Aux alentours, on trouve des îlots plus sauvages, Nosy Komba, patrie des Lémuriens noirs, Nosy Tanikely, réserve sous-marine protégée ou encore Nosy Iranja, l’île aux tortues.

    Nosy Be est la destination phare de l’industrie du tourisme à Madagascar (même si, statistiquement, davantage de touristes prennent la route du Sud vers Tuléar). Par conséquent, l’infrastructure touristique y est plus dense et de plus haut niveau que partout ailleurs dans le pays. L’île accueille le plus grand nombre de vazaha au mètre carré. La clientèle est composée surtout d’Allemands, d’Italiens, de Français et de Sud-Africains.

    Le voyageur songera probablement que les structures sont très développées, que tout y coule et roule, sonnant et trébuchant, comme sur la Côte d’Azur. Ce serait se méprendre : on est toujours à Madagascar. L’infrastructure routière est limitée, les communications téléphoniques parfois aléatoires, etc. L’ensemble, qu’on dit très touristique, fera sourire celui qui est un peu habitué aux grands rassemblements de touristes en short et en bob sur des plages congestionnées. Bien sûr, au plus fort de la saison touristique (mois d’août), il peut être difficile de se loger dans certains établissements (à Ambatoloaka surtout), mais il y aura en fait toujours de la place quelque part. Et c’est à se demander s’il n’y a pas plus de visiteurs au gouffre de Padirac en un jour que de touristes à Nosy Be en un mois complet !

    Donc, inutile de s’alarmer, cette île, parfois décriée, n’est pas un centre international du tourisme, loin s’en faut. Les prix y sont cependant supérieurs à ceux pratiqués sur la Grande Île, et on les affiche en euros. Toutefois, ce n’est pas encore La Réunion ou Maurice ! Alors, essayons de garder la tête froide : ce serait, certes, faire un léger affront à Madagascar que de limiter son voyage à cette île paradisiaque où les effets pervers du tourisme commencent à se faire sentir (une visite dans l’intérieur des terres – chaudement recommandée – vous assurera que tout n’est pas bleu comme la mer ou vert comme les cocotiers) ; mais il est faux de prétendre qu’elle est pervertie, frivole et insolente. En tout cas, nous n’y avons rien ressenti de tout cela, pas plus qu’à Diego, Tuléar ou Tamatave. Et puis, de toute façon, vous y viendrez probablement : vous aurez bien le temps de vous en faire une idée (essayez, vous aussi, de raison garder !). Il est vrai, tout de même, que le petit centre touristique de la touristique Ambatoloaka peut faire frémir les belles âmes (pas vraiment du genre 50/50, mais plutôt 60/20, si vous voyez ce que nous voulons dire…), mais c’est bien tout.

    A ceux qui critiquent le développement trop important des structures touristiques, il est d’ailleurs possible de rétorquer : « certes, très bien… mais c’est donc que vous voulez un endroit paradisiaque pour vous seul… authentique, comme vous dites… or, nonobstant votre égoïsme, les autres n’ont-ils pas eux aussi envie de connaître ce paradis ? En ce cas, que faut-il faire ? Ne vaut-il pas mieux que le tourisme se développe, en accord avec les populations locales, et surtout avec leur participation et dans le souci, non pas de les moduler selon des désirs d’investisseurs chevronnés ou de les insérer dans un projet économique dont ils ne voient aucun subside, mais de leur octroyer la liberté de choisir leur propre façon de vivre ? Dans le respect de chacun et de tous ? ». Sans parler bien sûr de la nécessité de se fondre dans le paysage, pour que les fleurs ne ploient pas sous le béton : mais on ne peut pas vraiment dire que Nosy Be ressemble aux Baléares, à Cancun ou aux Canaries… La majorité des hôtels sont en fait constitués de bungalows en bois ou de modestes bâtisses plutôt bien intégrées à la nature environnante.

    Vaine discussion, assurément, sur les bienfaits et les méfaits du tourisme… Une chose est sûre, cependant : c’est à nous, touristes, de jouer, et de faire en sorte que cette question n’ait plus à être posée. En étant tout à la fois conscients et responsables de nos actes et de nos petites lubies.

    Nosy Be doit son succès à ses forêts de palmiers, à ses plantations de canne à sucre et d’ylang-ylang, à ses bambouseraies et à tout un univers végétal envoûtant. Autour de sa côte s’étendent des plages superbes. À quelques encablures du rivage, une kyrielle de charmants îlots, peuplés de lémuriens sympathiques, abrite dans ses fonds marins une faune multiple qui y évolue en toute liberté. De plus, il y fait toujours chaud : l’ensoleillement est constant et l’eau agréable à longueur d’année.

    Historique

    Convoitée depuis toujours à cause de sa position stratégique, Nosy Be a vu s’affronter des flottes de guerre et, à l’aube du XVIe siècle, accoster les navires portugais. Avec Zanzibar, l’île est ensuite devenue une plaque tournante de la traite des esclaves et une base pour les pirates de tout poil, en même temps qu’un centre commercial important. Au XVIIe siècle, l’Angleterre, désireuse d’exercer son influence dans la région, y dépêcha le commandant Hunt.

    Puis la dynastie des Sakalava de la lignée d’Andriandahifotsy et d’Andriamandisoarivo s’y implanta, disputant l’île aux rois Antakarana et résistant aux armées Merina.

    Andriantsoly fut le dernier souverain à régner sur le royaume Sakalava septentrional. Défait par l’armée Hova, il s’exila aux Comores. Lui succédant, la reine Tsiomieko leva de nouvelles armées, qui furent battues par l’armée Hova. La reine demanda alors pour son île le statut de protectorat français et se replia successivement à Nosy Komba, à Andoany et, enfin, à Mahabo, où se trouve son Doany. En 1840, Louis-Philippe Ier, roi de France, dépêcha à Andoany le gouverneur de l’île Bourbon, l’amiral Hell. Celui-ci, accompagné du capitaine Passot, négocia avec la reine Tsiomieko. Un accord fut conclu et, le 5 mars 1841, Nosy Be devint protectorat français pour plus d’un siècle. Le 30 mars 1957, un référendum y mit un terme : l’île fut rattachée à la République malgache, une et indivisible.

    Pendant la guerre russo-japonaise de 1904-1905, un navire de guerre russe se posta à Nosy Be pour piéger la flotte japonaise de l’océan Indien… On attendit l’ennemi, longtemps, tellement longtemps qu’à la fin de la guerre l’équipage et le bateau furent oubliés sur place ! Un monument sur l’esplanade d’Andoany et une baie dite des Russes rappellent cet épisode.

    Mode d’emploi

    Les prix

    Tout le monde prétend que Nosy Be est une île très chère. Mis à part le taxi, effectivement plus coûteux que sur la Grande Île, cette idée reçue demande à être tempérée. Il est vrai que la moyenne des tarifs d’hébergement est plus élevée qu’ailleurs, et que le voyageur à petit budget ne dispose pas d’un vaste choix. Mais il trouvera quand même son bonheur en fouinant à droite à gauche. Il existe de très bons petits restaurants autour de 3 000 Ar pour un plat. Si vous descendez dans un grand hôtel et mangez dans les restaurants les plus chers, il est évident que vous trouverez la note salée. Certains établissements ne paraissent d’ailleurs pas s’inquiéter de proposer des tarifs équivalents à ceux de la Réunion… ou presque. Car globalement, l’île est bien moins chère que Maurice. Le service est par contre souvent défaillant, ce qui ne laisse pas d’agacer le voyageur : « pour un tel prix, dit-il, en être réduit à ça ! ». Il est vrai que Nosy Be n’est pas une île paradisiaque, au sens où l’on imagine Sainte-Lucie, Bora Bora ou les Seychelles. Certains en reviennent déçus ; d’autres ne s’attendent à rien et font aisément leur trou, se surprenant à demeurer plus longtemps que prévu.

    Il y a de tout à Nosy Be, et c’est pour cela qu’on l’aime, en définitive. Quant aux budgets serrés, en faisant preuve d’un peu d’initiative ou tout simplement en surveillant votre budget, vous verrez que vous ne dépenserez pas beaucoup plus. Les excursions, évidemment, comme partout sur la Grande Île, occasionnent des frais importants, d’autant plus élevés que vous êtes moins nombreux.

    C’est d’ailleurs bien le problème : car pour apprécier Nosy Be, il faut la quitter pour les îlots alentour. Une croisière est finalement le meilleur plan ! Une dernière chose : il est très facile de payer en euros dans les établissements hôteliers (à part dans les plus petites structures, bien sûr, et encore !). Pensez-y.
    Les filles

    Il faut bien en parler, d’autant que les opérateurs de l’île ont beaucoup souffert (et souffrent encore) de cette sulfureuse réputation. Bien sûr, le fait d’évoquer les filles de Nosy Be irrite déjà les prestataires locaux, à juste titre, car ils estiment que c’est pareil ailleurs (sans s’en vanter outre mesure). C’est possible. Mais puisque Nosy Be évoque immanquablement ce phénomène, mieux vaut essayer de circonscrire ce dernier plutôt que de laisser croire…

    D’aucuns évoquent cette île comme un lupanar géant, un centre international de prostitution, ou même de pédophilie… Encore une fois, et comme en toutes choses, il convient de garder la tête froide. Nous avons arpenté les ruelles de jour comme de nuit de cette Sodome qu’est Ambatoloaka, et de cette Gomorrhe qu’est Andoany, et il faut bien dire que nous n’avons pas trouvé d’atmosphère aussi délétère. Les filles sont peut-être un peu plus lestes, c’est vrai, les vazaha un peu plus entreprenants… mais nous avons vu et entendu les mêmes choses partout sur la Grande Terre (ce n’est, il est vrai, pas une raison pour s’en réjouir), et, le dirons-nous, dans bien des endroits de France et de Navarre. Il est vrai que certains voyageurs sont choqués de voir tant de vieux messieurs badinant sans retenue avec de jeunes donzelles semblant parfois tout juste sortir de l’adolescence, notamment dans le petit foyer touristique d’Ambatoloaka.

    On nous dira qu’on ne peut pas connaître un réseau d’envergure en se promenant simplement dans les rues ou même en dansant en discothèque. C’est vrai. Mais nous avons aussi beaucoup discuté, et il semble que la communauté résidente cherche par tous les moyens à éviter ce genre de problèmes. Comme dans d’autres villes de Mada, les récalcitrants (c’est-à-dire ceux qui commettent ce genre de crimes) sont souvent mis au ban de la communauté, et beaucoup veulent s’en débarrasser.

    Ceci étant dit, il est tout à fait possible qu’un tel réseau existe, dans l’ombre. Il en existe aussi en France, et bien d’autres ailleurs… Nous ne voulons pas dire par ces mots que c’est une fatalité, qu’on ne peut rien y faire, que c’est ainsi, et puis voilà : mais que Nosy Be n’est pas pire que beaucoup d’autres sites touristiques du pays, du continent, et même du monde en général. Loin, très loin s’en faut.

    Cependant, demandons-nous quand même un instant ce que va devenir ce pays, qui vend peu à peu son âme au diable vauvert et son corps aux dieux blancs (une déité bien économique, pour le coup) : une nouvelle Thaïlande ? Le comportement qu’il faut peut-être condamner, c’est celui, néocolonialiste, qui vient chercher ici ce qu’il a envie d’y trouver.


    août 14th, 2011 | Admin |

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