S’évader à Fort-Dauphin
  • A Fort-Dauphin, vous pouvez visiter des parcs naturels ou des réserves tantôt luxuriantes, tantôt arides, converser avec les lémuriens, parcourir l’un des sites les plus merveilleux de Madagascar (le village d’Evatra et la baie de Lokaro), assister à un coucher de soleil grandiose depuis Vinanibe, apprendre l’histoire des premiers colons français, et partager le quotidien d’une population très agréable. Taolagnaro jouit probablement du site le plus extraordinaire de Madagascar. Vous pourrez en outre vous accorder du bon temps sur la plage de Libanona.

    Taolagnaro jouit probablement du site le plus extraordinaire de Madagascar : trois de ses côtés sont baignés par l’océan, et chacun bénéficie de son propre climat. La ville est bordée, d’un côté par la végétation luxuriante qui dévale les pentes escarpées du pic Saint-Louis, de l’autre par les plages blondes de l’océan Indien : Lokaro, Libanona, Manafiafy… A une heure de vol d’Antananarivo (deux en passant par Tuléar), à l’extrême sud-est de Madagascar, au bout du monde, c’est une agglomération composée de plusieurs quartiers épars. Souvenirs d’un passé colonial, des maisons blanches à colonnades et des fortins entourés de palmiers font face à de grandes baies. A Taolagnaro, la végétation est très verte, et la pluie jamais bien loin ! C’est une ville où l’on se lie facilement. En fait, même, elle ressemble à un grand village. On s’y sent bien (surtout quand il fait beau !). Les paysages sont magnifiques, les gens accueillants. On y trouve du bel artisanat. Le visiteur est souvent désorienté stricto sensu, du fait que le centre-ville est d’un contour indéfini. Le site le plus central est l’axe de la corniche (du panorama au fort), et la ville se répartit en quartiers excentrés qui s’étendent entre les collines. Les rues sont délabrées. Sales même. Ce port a un aspect de bout du monde.

    Aujourd’hui, de nouvelles perspectives économiques, préparent cette ville alanguie à une véritable révolution. Il se pourrait que tout change, tout, strictement tout, dans les années à venir.

    Taolagnaro est d’autant plus propice à toutes sortes d’escapades que la variété des paysages y est liée à la diversité des climats : la côte Est étant abondamment arrosée toute l’année, on a l’assurance d’y trouver une végétation superbe. A une heure de route à peine, au-delà du col de Ranopiso, commence l’univers des aloès et des didiéréacées, des forêts d’épineux et de baobabs… On les traverse en prenant la route de la réserve de Berenty ou du parc national d’Andohahela.

    Les montagnes sont couvertes de forêts où le ravenala – l’arbre du voyageur – est omniprésent. Plus loin, le grand bush Antandroy s’étend presque jusqu’aux épineux du pays Mahafaly, ce « pays des épines » où vivent d’attachants lémuriens, le maki et le sifaka. D’étonnantes plantations de sisals apportent quelque richesse à la région. Cet agave originaire du Mexique sert à la confection des cordes, des sacs et des tapis. On extrait les fibres des feuilles de l’agave qui sont lavées, séchées et « cordées ». Le sisal souffre malheureusement de la concurrence des fibres synthétiques. Lorsque l’on vient de la capitale, la différence de température n’est pas trop sensible ; en revanche, en venant de Toliara, on perd en moyenne 10° C, il sera donc sage de prévoir des vêtements chauds, surtout pour le soir, des coupe-vent et des vêtements de pluie…
    Les premiers temps de la colonie française

    Cette région des royaumes Antanosy était habitée, de longue date, par un peuple d’agriculteurs et d’éleveurs qui formaient une société rurale, structurée et solidaire. En 1504, survient le premier « choc culturel » : des hommes blancs venus du bout du monde font naufrage sur la côte… Quatre-vingts marins portugais construisent un fort et vivent plus de dix ans sur un îlot, en bon voisinage, semble-t-il, avec la population Antanosy.

    On connaît mal le huguenot rochelais Jacques de Pronis, ou Jacques Pronis, qui, à 23 ans, un jour de mars 1642, s’embarqua à Dieppe sur le Saint-Louis avec quarante compagnons, en direction des terres australes. En ce temps-là, l’Europe en ébullition rêvait d’or, d’argent, de soie, d’épices, de pierreries. Un capitaine de la marine du roi, dénommé Rigault, dépêcha le jeune homme pour prendre possession de la plus grande île connue du monde. En outre, Richelieu voyait d’un bon œil l’établissement d’une colonie sur la route des Indes, afin d’enrichir et de protéger le royaume. La Compagnie de l’Orient est alors née, chargée, pour une période de dix ans, de prendre possession de « l’île de Saint-Laurent ».

    Le voyage dure six mois. Des vents contraires obligent Pronis à débarquer sur une île inconnue, qu’il revendique au nom de Louis XIII : elle prend le nom de Bourbon. On la connaît aujourd’hui sous celui de la Réunion.

    Puis l’infatigable voyageur gagne Madagascar ; il débarque dans une crique qu’on appelle : « Sainte-Lucie », car c’était le jour de cette noble dame. Mais le climat est insalubre, de nombreux hommes perdent la vie. Quand un autre navire, le Saint-Laurent, vient renforcer la colonie, on décide de se diriger plus au sud.

    Les Français se lient facilement aux femmes du pays : leur propre mari les présente sans mal, fiers et ravis de l’aubaine, tant matérielle que morale. Avec l’aide de Danois qui relâchent dans les eaux, Pronis édifie une grande maison en bois, qu’il surnomme : Fort-Dauphin, ne sachant pas que Louis XIV, dont il consacre la mémoire, est déjà monté sur le trône.

    Cependant, l’enceinte devient bientôt trop étroite, et les colons se plaignent de cette vie, certes, douce et paisible, mais trop médiocre. De plus, les catholiques n’acceptent pas d’être gouvernés par un Protestant : aussi ridicule que cela puisse sembler, la guerre de religion qui fait ravage sur le continent gagne ce coin perdu du monde.

    Une rébellion éclate. Fait prisonnier, puis libéré avec l’aide d’un nouveau vaisseau, Pronis cherche à se venger : il humilie les révoltés et les déporte sur l’île Bourbon : ce bagne s’avérera néanmoins un véritable paradis. Ensuite, il part conquérir d’autres terres, Sainte-Marie, Foulpointe notamment, gérant ses affaires comme il l’entend.

    Flacourt, naturaliste, est alors envoyé sur place pour recadrer tout le monde ; ce qu’il fait, puisqu’il met Pronis aux fers. Cet homme sage et avisé soumet de très nombreux villages de la côte en se conciliant les indigènes, et il explore en profondeur la Grande Ile. Ces enquêtes seront publiées dans sa célèbre Histoire de Madagascar qui fait toujours date.

    Pronis, entre-temps parti en France se justifier, revient à Fort-Dauphin, prend de nouveau le commandement pendant l’absence de Flacourt, mais la colonie périclite immanquablement. Un soir de réjouissances, un homme ivre met le feu à un toit de chaume : en quelques heures, le bourg n’est plus qu’un tas de cendres.

    Mais Pronis est têtu. Et, soutenu par un prêtre lazariste, il décide de reconstruire la colonie. Hélas ! Un nouvel incendie a raison de ce nouveau village. Obstiné, le huguenot relève les ruines pour la deuxième fois.

    Epuisé, il meurt à trente-six ans.

    Flacourt périt pour sa part en mer, dans un combat de corsaires au large de Lisbonne, tandis que son navire, la Sainte Vierge, est coulé par les Turcs.

    A Fort-Dauphin, les indigènes se révoltent, massacrent les colons, mais un certain Lacaze, qui avait d’ailleurs fui la forteresse lors de la fronde contre Pronis, tout au début, sauve la place, soutenu par une armée disciplinée : les indigènes l’avaient bien accueilli et il était même devenu roi à la mort de son beau-père ! Grâce à lui et quatre compagnons tout aussi amis des Malgaches, la paix est rétablie.

    Pendant ce temps, en France, Colbert envisage une autre politique coloniale : la Royale Compagnie de France des Indes orientales voit le jour. Sainte-Marie, Bourbon et l’île de France sont rattachés à la Grande Ile, qui, en l’honneur de Louis XIV, prend le nom d’Ile Dauphin ; l’ensemble compose la France orientale.

    D’après les statuts édictés par le roi, les autochtones et les Français seront jugés sans aucune distinction.

    Le 1er mars 1665, le marquis de Champmargou quitte Brest avec quatre vaisseaux et cinq cents hommes. Fort-Dauphin s’enrichit alors rapidement, on construit une muraille réputée imprenable : ils sont bien nombreux maintenant à vouloir gagner l’empire austral, attirés par les promesses du roi.

    Mais les Français ne s’entendent pas. Et la colonie, malgré toutes ces belles potentialités, périclite. Un peu plus tard, l’arrivée de l’amiral de La Haye, vice-roi de France orientale, ne change rien à l’affaire. Rapidement d’ailleurs, il abandonne la colonie pour gagner les Indes.
    Liens Pertinents

    Voyages & Tourisme
    Le Sud, La Ville du Soleil

    En face, sur l’île Bourbon, contre toute attente, les exilés se plaisent et s’enrichissent. Certains colons de Fort-Dauphin décident même de les y rejoindre, emportant quelques esclaves malgaches qui s’enfuiront, dans les hauteurs, à peine débarqués : ceux-là sont à l’origine des Noirs marrons…

    Sur Madagascar, les Antanosy, d’abord enthousiastes et très efficaces en matière de commerce, deviennent par la suite de plus en plus méfiants devant les menaces de spoliation de leurs terres. L’attitude dominatrice des colonisateurs ne peut que confirmer leurs craintes. Un nouveau drame, inéluctable, se profile.

    A Fort-Dauphin, un soir de Noël, au cours de la messe de minuit, les indigènes envahissent l’église et massacrent cinquante-deux des soixante-dix fidèles. Les dix-huit survivants s’embarquent à la hâte pour l’île Bourbon, mais des tempêtes les mènent vers le canal du Mozambique : après sept mois d’une houleuse traversée, la moitié de ces malheureux ont péri, quand ils débarquent enfin au Portugal. Fort-Dauphin est alors laissé à l’abandon.

    Transports
    Avion

    D’Antananarivo, on gagne rapidement Fort-Dauphin. En saison, compter au moins un vol par jour (deux, souvent), via Tuléar, ou directement (surtout en allant vers Tana). Il est fortement conseillé de réserver à l’avance car cette destination est très prisée.

    Il existe aussi un vol par semaine de, et vers La Réunion.

    A noter, un plan original pour les aventuriers au long cours : il est possible d’embarquer à bord d’un langoustier (un petit appareil qui transporte des langoustes, comme son nom l’indique), vers le nord ou le sud (par exemple Faux-Cap ou Lavanono, etc.). Renseignez-vous à l’aéroport, en ville, un peu partout. Nous avons croisé des gens qui ont tenté l’expérience : elle est donc envisageable, quoi que l’on vous dise.

    Agence Air Madagascar & 92 211 22. De l’autre cote de la rue, sur les hauteurs, par rapport à l’agence air fort services.
    Route

    D’Antananarivo jusqu’à Taolagnaro, la route est longue, mais peu chère en taxi-brousse (départ de la gare routière d’Anosy) ; à Ihosy, on emprunte la terrible et fameuse RN13, tout à fait défoncée. Il paraît qu’un projet de réhabilitation est en cours : espérons-le ! Le mieux est encore de faire du « cabotage taxi-brousse » de ville en ville, de site en site, tout le long de la route du Sud, si l’on ne veut pas arriver fou furieux à destination.

    Depuis Tuléar, on suit la RN10, mauvaise jusqu’à Ambovombe, goudronnée (c’est un bien grand mot…) ensuite jusqu’à Fort-Dauphin. Compter deux jours de trajet, pour 24 000 Ar. Il y a des départs tous les jours.

    La RN12 gagne Sainte-Luce au nord. Elle est dans un état… critique, dirons-nous : compter 3h pour 60 km en 4×4 (une moyenne honorable, finalement !). Ne vous y engagez pas à la légère : où comptez-vous d’ailleurs aller par la suite ?

    Pour terminer, il nous reste à évoquer la piste côtière qui suit le parcours évoqué dans le chapitre précédent, jusqu’à Tuléar. Un trajet formidable, riche en émotions, de plus en plus prisé par les agences de voyages et les touristes.

    Gare des taxis-brousse. Elle se trouve dans le quartier de Tanambao, à la sortie de la ville.
    Pratique
    Indicatif téléphonique : 92
    Présence française

    Alliance française.
    Rue Maréchal Lyautey, Bazarikely
    Fax : 92 213 01
    Office régional du tourisme de Fort-Dauphin. WEB : www.fort-dauphin.com
    Consulat honoraire de France & 92 211 32.
    Commissariat central de police & 92 213 69.
    Banques

    Bfv-Societe Générale. rue Marechal Foch & 92 212 86 – fax : 92 210 55. cartes Visa. transferts Western Union.
    Bni-Credit Agricole. avenue Flacourt & 92 211 15 – fax : 92 216 23. Ouvert du lundi au vendredi de 8h a 11h et de 14h a 16h.
    Boa. rue Marechal Foch & 92 212 18/210 29.
    Socimad. rue Marechal Foch & 92 216 91.

    Communications

    Le téléphone et autres communications locales fonctionnent parfois au hasard. Il y a maintenant des cabines téléphoniques, d’où il est théoriquement possible de joindre le monde extérieur. Plus important toutefois : il existe dorénavant un réseau Orange, et un réseau Airtel. Plus de problème pour se connecter au monde extérieur, ça change tout !

    Il est possible de se connecter à Internet au local de Fortnet, qui se trouve derrière les bureaux de Telma, sur l’esplanade principale.
    Tourisme

    Air Fort Services Tél : 92 212 24/92 212 34/033 02 212 34/032 11 212 34 – FAX : 92 212 24. Une agence très sérieuse. Vous ne pouvez manquer leur bâtiment, en plein centre-ville, sur la route principale après le Mahavoky annexe. L’équipe d’Aziz, un brin commerçant, sympa comme tout, et soucieux avant tout de satisfaire ses clients, qu’il considère parfois en amis, gère la réserve de Nahampoana, fortement recommandée, et des bungalows rustiques et chaleureux dans le village d’Evatraha, ou, de toute façon, vous mettrez forcement les pieds. Bien d’autres choses encore : agence de voyage (toutes sortes d’excursions, à Faux-Cap, Sainte Luce, Vinanibe, etc.), location de voiture… et une foule de renseignements en perspective. Nous ne pouvons que vous recommander d’y faire un saut (au moins).

    Anosy Discovery Tél : 033 11 001 88/033 12 060 86. Location de 4×4, organisation de circuits dans la région.

    Ankoba Tél : 92 215 15. Plutôt du côté mer : planches à voile, pêche artisanale et/ou sportive, chasse sous-marine. Mais aussi VTT, moto, 4×4…

    Chabani Travel Tours Tél : 92 216 06/033 11 895 30. Location de voitures 4×4, circuits touristiques, agence de voyages.

    Lavasoa Tél : 92 211 75/033 12 911 75. situe sur la presqu’île de Libanona. Nombreuses excursions dans les environs. Jusqu’à Lokaro notamment, ou l’équipe dispose d’un camp, le « camp pirate », dans un cadre naturel saisissant. Location de canoë, de kayak, de palmes, masques et tuba. Transfert dans les différents sites touristiques de la région, et a l’aéroport.

    Safari Laka. A côté de chez Gina Tél : 92 212 66 – fax : 92 217 24. Cette agence plutôt sérieuse, et établie depuis un moment, propose toutes sortes d’excursions, la plus courue étant évidemment la baie de Lokaro.

    SHTM Tél : 92 212 38 – FAX : 92 211 32. C’est l’agence de Monsieur de Heaulme qui possède aussi le dauphin, le Miramar et la réserve de Berenty (notamment). Renseignements aux adresses susdites. La plus à même de vous fournir des informations sur Berenty. une affaire qui roule.
    Guides accompagnateurs

    Pour rencontrer Octave, rendez-vous Chez Anita. On peut le joindre au Tél : 033 12 478 34.
    Adresses utiles

    Librimad est la librairie-papeterie la mieux fournie de la localité.
    Humanitaire

    Ong Azafady Tél : 92 212 65. – Sur la route de Nahampoana. Développement communautaire, conservation de l’environnement, santé, hygiène. L’équipe aide entre autres à creuser des puits pour les villageois.

    Ong Gruppo Laici Terzo Mondo. BP 282, Bazarikely Tél : 92 210 31. Association « Sembana miray hina » créée par les handicapes de Fort-Dauphin afin de se gérer eux-mêmes. Un centre d’artisanat a été institué en novembre 2002, où ces personnes, « a mobilité réduite » ont la possibilité d’apprendre un métier et de se former à la production et à la vente d’œuvres artisanales. Plusieurs filières leur sont proposés : menuiserie, sculpture, tressage de fibre, broderie, etc. Cette opportunité leur assure une véritable indépendance économique dans une société qui ne leur laisse pas vraiment le choix. L’action de l’association vise également la salubrité et la santé des handicapés. Vous pouvez participer à cette action en achetant leur artisanat ou en y souscrivant. Pour tout renseignement, voyez Aziz à l’agence Air Fort Services, ou rendez-vous directement au marche de la ville (à l’entrée, au niveau du restaurant chez Perline), en demandant l’atelier. Lors de notre dernier passage, des étals d’artisanat étaient en construction sur la route de Nahampoana, quelques centaines de mètres après le panorama.
    Hébergement

    À Taolagnaro comme a Toliara, il vaut mieux réserver une bonne semaine a l’avance, particulièrement en juillet et août.
    Bien et pas cher

    Hôtel Mahavoky Tél : 033 14 007 45. Compter 9 000 Ar avec sanitaires communs (eau froide). Bien destroy. Grandes chambres délavées qui évoquent l’ambiance routarde des années soixante-dix ou celle, toujours actuelle, de quelque coin perdu des Andes ou d’Amérique centrale. Pour les nostalgiques. On se dit qu’avec quelques pinceaux, un marteau et de la bonne volonté, l’endroit serait tout simplement magique.

    Mahavoky annexe Tél : 033 02 213 97. Sur l’avenue principale, a deux pas de l’agence air fort services. Neuf chambres, à 14 000 Ar sur l’avenue, à 16 000 Ar avec vue sur la mer. Un peu vieillissant, pour ne pas dire dépérissant pour le prix, toutefois, sanitaires prives, eau chaude. La salle du restaurant, surplombant l’océan, est agréable.

    Chez Anita. Chambre avec sanitaires communs, eau froide à 10 400 Ar bungalow double avec eau froide à 11 400 AR, avec eau chaude à 12 000  ;Ar, triple avec eau chaude a 15 000 Ar (bonne pression). Les bungalows entourent un petit jardin fleuri très attrayant, idéal pour prendre un petit-déjeuner. La gérante est adorable et cuisine peut-être les meilleurs sambos de la ville. On nous l’avait dit, et c’est vrai, nous les avons goûtés. Le restaurant sert une cuisine de qualité, à des prix démocratiques, mais l’attente peut être assez longue. Bonne atmosphère. Une adresse sympathique pour les routards, et pour le dire ainsi, le meilleur plan en ville.

    Chez Jacqueline. Compter 12 000 Ar pour deux personnes. Pas loin de chez Anita (un peu plus loin, dans la même rue). Quatre chambres, avec sanitaires privés. Basique, mais convenable.

    Sahil Hôtel Tél : 92 216 04. Sept chambres à 15 000 Ar environ, avec eau chaude. Petites mais propres, claires, et plutôt confortables. L’alcool est autorise dans les chambres, mais pas au restaurant (religion oblige). Depuis l’étage, on voit la mer. Bon accueil.

    Soane Hôtel Tél : 92 213 59 – Fax : 92 212 16. Email : sobafor@moov.mg – six bungalows avec eau chaude a 20 000 Ar un peu vétustes, mais acceptables. Quatre nouvelles chambres tout confort a 49 000 Ar (TV, coffre-fort, petit salon, etc.). Propre, spacieux, confortable, sans un charme fou non plus. Bar et restaurant, prix convenables, dans un nouveau bâtiment en contrebas, a l’arrière d’un grand jardin ou l’on a pose quelques transats pour bronzer ou faire la sieste.

    Le Népenthes Tél : 033 12 531 13. Sept bungalows a 20 600 Ar pour deux personnes. Lit supplémentaire à 5 000 AR. Sanitaires prives, eau chaude. Récents, simples et calmes. Juste avant le Soavy, sur la droite, a cote de la boulangerie pain Délice. Environnement agréable mais qui manque encore d’un jardin ou se relaxer pour être incontournable. Mais bon, le rapport qualité prix, finalement, est l’un des meilleurs de la ville. Les chambres sont très convenables. Attention, il n’y a pas beaucoup de lumières pour gagner la rue principale le soir, a moins de 5 min a pied (apporter une lampe, ou marcher tout droit, si possible, il n’y a pas trop de trous dans la chaussée !).

    Baie des singes Tél : 033 12 616 49. Dix bungalows a 20 000 Ar pour deux personnes. Quand l’on compare cette adresse avec la précédente, ainsi que leur prix, on se dit que quelque chose ne tourne pas rond au royaume des hôteliers. Ici, tout est déliquescent, il n’y a même pas de clés pour fermer les portes ! Très basique. Dommage, le cadre mériterait d’autres infrastructures !

    Hôtel Panorama. Betsileo, BP 198 Tél : 92 216 56 ou 033 12 513 43. Email : panorama@fortnet.net – cinq bungalows avec mezzanine à 15 000 Ar (seulement le bas, pour deux) et 25 000 Ar (l’ensemble, pour quatre personnes). Eau chaude. En plein centre, près du port, fait effectivement face a une baie impressionnante ou l’océan indien s’agite autour des bateaux échoues près du rivage. Si son confort est relatif (bungalows sans grand charme, mais convenables ; mezzanines un peu exiguës toutefois), il présente d’autres intérêts : son restaurant la terrasse (un rien classieux) et son bar, sont des lieux de rendez-vous prises, et c’est aussi l’endroit des festivités nocturnes.

    Le Tournesol Tél : 92 216 71. Huit bungalows a 20 000 Ar (eau chaude, ventilateur). Certaines chambres offrent une vue agréable sur le pic saint-louis. Elles ne sont pas exceptionnelles, loin s’en faut, un peu plus d’entretien serait même bienvenu. Mais le petit jardin où l’on peut petit-déjeuner s’avère plaisant et bienvenu. La carte du restaurant est classique, pas très chère. Spécialités : calmars a l’ail, langue de zébu sauce piquante. On goûtera aussi aux bichiques, sortes d’alvins.
    Confort ou charme

    Village petit bonheur. Sur la corniche Tél : 92 212 60/033 05 035 23/033 14 745 38. Email : villagepetitbonheur@fortnet.net – cartes visa acceptées. Dix chambres à 30 000 AR, et cinq bungalows à 25 000 Ar appartement familial a 50 000 Ar appartement complet : 30 €. Lit supplémentaire à 7 000 Ar sanitaires prives, eau chaude. Surplombe la baie monseigneur. Jardin tranquille. Seule la houle peuple le silence, une fois la nuit tombée. Situation enviable, mais les chambres ou les bungalows n’en profitent pas tant que cela. Des efforts de rénovation sont entrepris depuis que la nouvelle gérance a repris l’affaire, d’autres vont suivre (on l’espère, en tout cas). De fait, c’est beaucoup mieux, et l’on peut souhaiter, qu’a l’avenir, l’adresse retrouvera un cachet… qu’elle n’a peut-être jamais encore eu, d’ailleurs. Rapport qualité prix équitable. Diverses excursions possibles.

    Hôtel Miramar (SHTM) Tél : 92 211 54/033 12 713 77. Dix-sept chambres. Compter 48 € pour deux personnes. Lit supplémentaire a 10 €. L’hôtel est situe sur la corniche qui surplombe la baie, a proximité de la plage de Libanona. Les chambres, confortables, entourent un jardin très agréable. On regrettera cependant que, contrairement a ce que l’emplacement et le nom de l’hôtel indique, elles n’offrent aucun panorama sur les alentours. Heureusement, le restaurant, qui propose fruits de mer et plats européens de qualité (situe un peu plus loin, sur la corniche), surplombe fièrement la plage et l’océan Indien : idéal pour le coucher de soleil. Possibilité d’organiser des visites et excursions (parc botanique Saädi, Ifaty, Réserve de Berenty, Toliara).

    Hôtel Kaleta Tél : 92 212 87 – Fax : 92 213 84. Chambres a 28 600 Ar (sanitaires prives avec douche, téléphone), 33 400 Ar (Baignoire et téléphone) et 49 200 Ar (baignoire, TV, téléphone, vue mer). Excursions organisées en ville. Une grande bâtisse prometteuse mais qui, hélas, sent vraiment le vieux. On a beau repeindre, l’air marin ne sied pas à de telles entreprises. Situation remarquable : il y aurait vraiment de quoi faire quelque chose de séduisant… confortables, par ailleurs, et les chambres qui ont une vue sur le port et la mer sont plus attrayantes (terrasses un peu bétonnées !). Mais il est possible de ne pas s’y sentir a son aise.

    Motel Gina Tél : 033 12 807 48/032 04 592 59/92 212 66. Email : motelgina2005@yahoo.fr – tarifs selon la saison. Bungalows aux allures de chalet rond avec mezzanine, a 12,50 € ou 15 € pour deux personnes, 14,50 € ou 17,50 € pour trois personnes, confortables et disposes dans un cadre tropical qui a un peu perdu de sa superbe mais pourraient vite le retrouver. Bungalows carres en brique à 9 € ou 11 € pour deux personnes, 11 € ou 13 € pour trois personnes, 13 € ou 15,50 €. Pour quatre personnes. Bungalows carres à 8 € ou 9,50 € pour deux personnes. Bungalows carres en bois à 5 € ou 6 € pour deux personnes. Petite chambre avec sanitaires communs (eau froide) a 4 € ou 5 € pour deux personnes. Pourrait être mieux mis en valeur. Chambres sombres mais confortables. Un certain style. Semble subir une cure de jouvence depuis peu. Hôtel géré également l’agence Safari Laka.

    Gina village Tél : 033 12 784 19/032 19 429 92. Email : ginavillage@yahoo.fr – compter 24 000 Ar pour deux personnes. Lit supplémentaire à 10 000 Ar les dix bungalows, sagement alignes en surplomb de la route, ne sont pas inoubliables, mais ils n’ont rien de médiocre non plus. Confortables, classiques en fait, d’une certaine façon. Le genre d’endroit où l’on peut se rendre sans surprises, avec la certitude que tout fonctionnera plus ou moins, pour un prix finalement correct. Mais pas de quoi fouetter un zébu non plus.
    Encore plus confortable… sans être luxueux

    Bungalows Lavasoa. BP 329 Tél. :/Fax : 92 211 75/033 12 911 75. web : http://lavasoa.free.fr – email : lavasoa@fortnet.net – cinq bungalows, certains avec mezzanine, dont un studio équipe. Ensemble très confortable. Compter 30 € (environ 75 000 AR) Pour une ou deux personnes. Studio (pour quatre personnes) a 40 €. Cafeteria pour les petits-déjeuners (3 €). Réservation indispensable. Beaucoup de caractère, situation un peu fantastique au-dessus de la plage de Libanona. Couchers de soleil proprement magiques depuis les terrasses des bungalows, véritables havres de méditation. Seul petit problème : il n’y a pas de restaurant, mais chez Georges, recommande, se trouve juste en bas sur la plage. Anne et Eric vous recevront avec chaleur. Il est possible de marcher jusqu’au bout de la corniche, et d’y admirer depuis la, en saison, le souffle puissant des baleines. L’adresse de charme à Fort-Dauphin, incontestablement. Le tarif est honnête, si l’on conserve ses repères européens, mais, effectivement, traduits localement (surtout depuis la dévaluation), et compares au reste (sauf hôtel suivant), ils s’avèrent assez costauds. Hôtel dispose également d’un campement a Lokaro (voir sous la rubrique « agences de voyages », plus haut). Une excursion a Evatra revient a 30 € par personne.

    Le Dauphin (SHTM) Tél : 92 211 32. Trente-cinq chambres a 48 €. Lit supplémentaire a 10 000 Ar (environ 4 €). Situé dans un fort beau parc, un hôtel très confortable, qui s’est un peu remis à la page. Le cadre, tropical, est relaxant. Chambres impeccables, mais inégalées. Les anciennes (a droite de l’entrée), quoique séduisantes, sont beaucoup moins spacieuses que les nouvelles, sur la gauche (certaines ont un petit salon, un frigo, etc., et pourtant toutes sont au même prix !) : demandez à voir plusieurs types de chambres avant de choisir. La piscine n’est plus opérationnelle (certains guides jureraient que si). Des chaises longues disposées sur les terrasses invitent au farniente. L’organisation de visites de la ville et d’excursions à la réserve de Berenson est prévue. Pour cette dernière, compter 176 € pour une ou deux personnes le transfert, et 48 € la nuit là-bas également pour la réserve de Lokaro, compter 84 € par personne. Ces tarifs sont tout de même prohibitifs, et l’on ne peut qu’attendre, un peu plus de bons sens dans leur appréciation. Le restaurant du dauphin est par contre connu comme l’une des bonnes tables du grand port de l’extrême sud.
    Restaurants

    L’Oasis. AU NIVEAU DU ROND-POINT, EN ARRIVANT A KALETA. UN NOUVEAU PETIT SNACK, QUI SERT DE TRES BONS HAMBURGERS QUE L’ON PEUT EMPORTER (ILS N’ONT PAS L’AIR SI ENORMES, MAIS REMPLISSENT TRES BIEN UNE PANSE AFFAMEE). UNE IDEE CASSE-CROUTE.

    Le Pain-Délice PRES DU SOAVY OFFRE UNE BELLE SELECTION DE PATISSERIES QUE L’ON PEUT SAVOURER EN PRENANT UN CAFE.

    Las Vegas. EN FACE DU GINA. ON Y BOIT ET ON Y MANGE AUSSI. PRIX RAISONNABLES. PLATS CONVENABLES. QUE DIRE D’AUTRE ? IL Y A PEUT-ETRE ENCORE DES CABARETS LE VENDREDI SOIR, RENSEIGNEZ-VOUS.

    Chez Vivie Tél : 92 214 40. PRESQUE EN FACE DE L’ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE. PLATS PAS CHERS. PROPRE, PEU CONNU ENCORE. A DECOUVRIR. NOUS PENSONS QU’IL S’AGIT D’UN EXCELLENT ENDROIT POUR PASSER UNE BONNE SOIREE ENTRE AMIS.

    Chez Perline. PRES DU MARCHE. ON Y MANGE TRES BIEN DANS UNE AMBIANCE CONVIVIALE, A L’INTERIEUR OU EN TERRASSE. L’UNE DES MEILLEURES ADRESSES DU COIN. PLATS PAS TRES CHERS (PAS PLUS DE 4 000 Ar EN GENERAL).

    Belle d’Azur. DANS LE QUARTIER DE BAZARY BE, PAS LOIN DU FORT. MEMES GENRES DE PRIX. TRES BON ACCUEIL, CADRE PLAISANT. UNE ADRESSE A RECOMMANDER POUR LES PETITS BUDGETS.

    Chez Georges. SUR LA PLAGE DE LIBANONA. BIEN SITUE, SOUVENT RECOMMANDE, C’EST UN ARRET INEVITABLE QUAND ON PASSE DANS LE COIN. LES PORTIONS NE SONT EN REVANCHE PAS TRES CONSISTANTES (ON PEUT COMPTER LES FRITES…).

    Les Chasseurs Tél :/FAX : 92 216 47/033 14 368 61. M. SERGE EST AFFABLE ET AVENANT, ET IL A SU GERER SON RESTAURANT POUR EN FAIRE L’UN DES ENDROITS INCONTOURNABLES DE LA VILLE. PRIX ACCESSIBLES, CUISINE DE QUALITE, AXEE SUR LES GIBIERS, CERTES (ON S’EN DOUTAIT !), MAIS ON PEUT AUSSI AVOIR DE BONNES SURPRISES COTE FRUITS DE MER. N’HESITEZ PAS A VENIR PRENDRE UN PASTIS POUR DISCUTER AVEC NOTRE AMI DE-CI ET DE-LA… LA AUSSI, ON PEUT AVOIR DES SURPRISES. À L’ENTREE DE LA VILLE, PRES DU MARCHE.
    Sortir

    Le principal night-club de la ville est Le Panorama (attenant à l’hôtel-restaurant du même nom). Passé 22 heures, l’ambiance y est très chaude…

    Un nouveau bar discothèque vient d’ouvrir : La Grange, au niveau de La Baie des Singes. Ouvert le vendredi et le samedi soir, seulement comme discothèque. Nous ne connaissons pas encore vraiment l’ambiance. Dans la même rue que le Panorama, en venant du marché, on doit citer deux bars : Aux bons amis, un repaire d’ivrognes et de philosophes gris ; et le Las Vegas, en face de Chez Gina, de temps à autre populaire et sympa. Cabaret un vendredi sur deux à ne pas manquer (en principe, et à vérifier, avec votre éternel sens futé).

    Toujours dans la même rue, deux épi-bars (épicerie bar) méritent l’attention des noctambules accomplis : Chez Nene (en face du Tournesol) et Chez Martine (à côté du Panorama). Ambiance gasy garantie, idéale pour une immersion complète dans la vie nocturne locale, avant de s’achever, pourquoi pas, et comme de juste, au Panorama. Comme le disait notre pote, Samson le Rasta, avant de convoler en Angleterre où nous lui en souhaitons de belles, « Chez Nene, ça déchire sa race » ! Inutile d’y venir pour jouer au bridge ou boire du lait de chèvre.
    Points d’intérêt

    Fort-Dauphin dégage une atmosphère paisible, rafraîchissante (surtout si l’on vient de Tuléar). Pas grand-chose à faire dans la ville elle-même, mais on prend plaisir à flâner dans les rues, à s’arrêter pour saluer quelqu’un, à boire un café, en attendant le soir…

    Architecture coloniale. LA LOCALITE ABRITE DE BEAUX VESTIGES D’ARCHITECTURE COLONIALE (MAISONS A VARANGUES ET COLONNADES…) ; L’UNE DES PLUS BELLES EST LA GRANDE MAISON BLANCHE DE LA FAMILLE KALETA, QUI EST ENTOUREE DE VERDURE NON LOIN DE L’HOTEL LE DAUPHIN. L’AXE MENANT DE LA POSTE AU DANCING LE PANORAMA, LES BATIMENTS OCRE, LES COLONNADES, LES TEMOIGNAGES ARCHITECTURAUX DU PASSE MERITENT DE LONGUES DEAMBULATIONS DANS LA VILLE.

    Fortins. DERRIERE LA MOSQUEE, DE TRÈS VIEILLES BATISSES DE PIERRE EMERGENT DE LA VEGETATION ENTRE LES MAISONS PLUS RECENTES. CE SONT LES VESTIGES DES FORTINS EDIFIES A PARTIR DU XVIIE SIECLE. MALHEUREUSEMENT, MALGRE LA VOLONTE DU MINISTRE DE LA CULTURE, LE BUDGET DE L’ÉTAT NE PERMET PAS DE RESTAURER CES VIEILLES PIERRES PORTEUSES DE MEMOIRE…

    Nouvelle mosquée. EN PARTANT A PIED EN DIRECTION DE LA ROUTE CIRCULAIRE QUI SURPLOMBE LA PLAGE DE LIBANONA, IL FAUT PRENDRE LE TEMPS DE PARCOURIR LE QUARTIER DE LA COMMUNAUTE INDO-PAKISTANAISE. S’ELEVANT DANS LA VEGETATION, LA NOUVELLE MOSQUEE AUX GRACIEUSES COUPOLES, TEMOIGNE DU ROLE IMPORTANT QUE JOUE CETTE COMMUNAUTE DANS L’ECONOMIE LOCALE.

    Musée de l’Anosy. NON LOIN DE LA MAISON D’ARRET, L’UN DES FORTINS A ETE AMENAGE, A L’INITIATIVE D’UN ZANATANY (ENFANT DU SOL) AMOUREUX DE LA REGION, MONSIEUR. JEAN DE HEAULME, ET DE SES COMPLICES, L’ETHNOLOGUE GEORGES HEURTEBIZE ET L’ARCHEOLOGUE C. ALLIBERT. CE FORTIN ABRITE UN MUSEE DE L’ANOSY ET DE LA ROUTE DES INDES, QUI RETRACE L’HISTOIRE ET LA CULTURE DES PEUPLES DE LA REGION, LEURS RENCONTRES TUMULTUEUSES AVEC L’EUROPE ; EN OUTRE, IL FAIT UNE LARGE PLACE AUX TRADITIONS, A LA FAUNE ET A LA FLORE LOCALES. ALLEZ-Y FAIRE UN TOUR.

    Plage. LA PLAGE LA PLUS POPULAIRE, LA PLUS BELLE, ET LA PLUS SURE DE LA LOCALITE EST CELLE DE LIBANONA ; LE COUCHANT Y EST PARTICULIEREMENT MAGNIFIQUE (REMONTER JUSQU’AU BELVEDERE QUI SURPLOMBE LA PLAGE SUR LA GAUCHE, AU NIVEAU DES BUNGALOWS LAVASOA). SINON, IL CONVIENT D’ALLER JUSQU’A LOKARO OU LA MER EST PLUS CALME.
    Shopping

    Marché. LE PLUS GRAND MARCHE, TRÈS COLORE, SE TROUVE A LA SORTIE DE LA VILLE, A TANAMBAO. ON PEUT Y ACHETER FRUITS, LÉGUMES, SOUBIQUES, TISSUS, BOISSONS. LES DEUX PHARMACIES LES MIEUX POURVUES DE LA VILLE Y SONT INSTALLEES. CAT664

    Artisanat, souvenirs, aquarelles

    Hirjee Bijoux, AVENUE FLACOURT, EST UN LIEU OU L’ON PEUT NÉGOCIER ÉMERAUDES, SAPHIRS, RUBIS DANS UNE AMBIANCE INDO-PAKISTANAISE PROPICE A UN MARCHANDAGE PASSIONNANT. FLASH BOUTIQUE, SUR LA ROUTE DE L’AEROPORT, PROPOSE UNE BELLE SELECTION DE L’ARTISANAT MALGACHE.

    Au Bout du Monde Tél : 92 214 41. LA BOUTIQUE DE THERESE OFFRE UN CHOIX DE PRODUITS ARTISANAUX DE QUALITE. LA MIEUX ACHALANDEE PEUT-ETRE. GERE AUSSI LE VILLAGE PETIT BONHEUR, MAINTENANT.
    Loisirs

    Trajectoire Tél : 032 07 601 22. WEB : WWW.TRAJECTOIRE.IT – E_MAIL : TRAJECTOIRE@WANADOO.MG – SUCCURSALE DE CET OPERATEUR BIEN CONNU DE TULEAR. LOCATION DE QUAD A ENVIRON 60 € PAR JOUR, POUR SE RENDRE A LA BAIE D’ITALY, SAINTE LUCE, LE PARC ANDOHAHELA…

    Sports nautiques AVEC VINANIBE SURF LODGE (PLANCHE A VOILE, KITESURF, FUNBOARD) Tél : 033 12 416 63. WEB : WWW.3DMADAGASCAR.COM/VINANIBE – E_MAIL : VINANIBE@YAHOO.FR

    Surf. LE SURF SUR LES VAGUES DE L’OCEAN INDIEN ATTIRE DES GROUPES DE « PROS » DU MONDE ENTIER. LE MEILLEUR SPOT EST CELUI DE LA BAIE DE VIVAVY KELY (EN CONTREBAS DE L’HOTEL LA BAIE DES SINGES) OU LES VAGUES SONT VRAIMENT GRISANTES (SELON LES DIRES DES HABITUES DES LIEUX) ET OU IL N’Y AURAIT PAS DE REQUINS. POUR TOUT RENSEIGNEMENT : CLUB AKOBA, TRES SYMPATHIQUE, SUR LA PLAGE Tél : 92 215 15. WEB : WWW.3DMADAGASCAR.COM/ANKOBA – E_MAIL : ANKOBA@FORTNET.NET –- UN AUTRE CLUB SE TROUVE A AMBINANIBE.

    Possibilité de faire du Windsurf EN SEPTEMBRE, PENDANT LA PERIODE DES ALIZES.

    M. Marshal, originaire de l’île Maurice, fut l’un des premiers colons français de Fort-Dauphin. L’un de ses frères fut capturé tout jeune par les Antandroy et devint leur esclave. On lui brûlait régulièrement la plante des pieds pour l’empêcher de s’enfuir. Cependant, il découvrit grâce aux indigènes un arbre appelé intsy, d’où s’écoulait un lait épais et gommeux à la moindre cassure, le latex, qui lui permit de mettre au jour une substance promise à un bel avenir : le caoutchouc. Plus pure et plus élastique que celle des hévéas, cette gomme fut utilisée par Michelin dans la fabrication de ses premiers pneumatiques.

    Mais les arbres à latex diminuèrent rapidement en nombre, on découvrit de la gomme ailleurs (en Amazonie, notamment – voir la triste épopée des Seringueiros au Brésil, dont Chico Mendes, assassiné en 1988, était l’un des porte-parole les plus éloquents), et l’industrie cessa brusquement, entraînant la région dans la famine.
    Le projet Ilménite (QMM)

    QMM (QIT Madagascar Minerals SA) est une société anonyme de droit malgache, (détenue à 80 % par une filiale d’une société minière du Royaume-Uni et d’Australie), en train de mettre en place un projet d’exploitation minière dans la région de Fort-Dauphin. Il vise à extraire de l’ilménite (qui contient du bioxyde de titane, utilisé pour les peintures, le papier et les plastiques), et un peu de zircon. Evidemment ce projet, qui sera bientôt mis en œuvre, fait beaucoup jaser. Certains soutiennent que l’implantation d’une aussi grosse structure va enfin dynamiser la vie économique de la région, et en faire un véritable pôle industriel pour le Sud de Madagascar ; en outre, le projet concerne aussi la construction d’un nouveau port en haute mer, pour accueillir les « grosses cylindrées » des océans (le premier site choisi était Evatraha, mais de nombreuses voix s’y sont opposées) et d’aucuns y voient enfin l’occasion de créer beaucoup d’emplois, de diminuer la pauvreté, et de désenclaver la ville. D’autres, au contraire, ripostent que la ville risque précisément d’acquérir une réputation de cité minière et industrielle (peu prometteuse), d’attirer quantité de prospecteurs en tout genre (façon Ilakaka au sud de Ranohira) et donc d’accroire l’insécurité, que l’environnement va de surcroît cruellement souffrir, que de superbes sites naturels vont être défigurés, et que le tourisme ne s’en remettra jamais… Difficile de garder raison devant de semblables arguments, de quel côté qu’ils soient. Il est évident qu’un projet minier d’envergure est positif pour l’économie régionale (toutes choses étant égales par ailleurs). En outre, des routes vont être réhabilitées et goudronnées, une zone franche va voir le jour, probablement un centre de santé, une école, etc., avec tout le développement parallèle qu’une telle entreprise engendre (de nombreux Canadiens, qui vont exploiter le site, vont, en fait, vivre ici en permanence). Personne ne peut prétendre que rien ne sera fait sur ce plan : on pourrait juste se demander s’il ne s’agira pas, en même temps, d’une exploitation humaine pour des histoires de gros sous, mais c’est une autre question… En ce qui concerne l’environnement, QMM a assuré à tous les bailleurs de fonds, à tous les partenaires, tant privés que publics, que le respect de la nature serait l’une de ses priorités. Selon cette société, de gros efforts seront entrepris pour préserver le fantastique héritage végétal et minéral de cette frange de côte malgache. D’une manière générale, elle a présenté une « politique sociale et environnementale » convaincante. Reste à savoir comment les choses vont s’organiser, et comment, surtout, elles vont se développer. Plutôt que de gémir alors que rien n’est encore fait, il sera peut-être plus sage de critiquer et de s’opposer quand les raisons seront bonnes et suffisantes. Il serait effectivement terrible que Madagascar s’enrichisse au mépris de sa culture et de sa vie traditionnelle. La Grande Ile a-t-elle pourtant le choix ?


    août 14th, 2011 | Admin |

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